What are the best fresh water fish to start out with?

I would sugest just about any type of tetra or mollie.

That really depends on how big your tank is and a lot on personal preferences. Add a few details, and we can give suggestions. has lots of info.

Good luck,
Catherine

betta

goldfish

I agree with areana about research. Doing research on any fish that you might be interested is by far the best way to learn. Sean copied his information from the website he quoted at the end, and although this information is precise, it’s a lot of unnecessary information on a lot of different fish. is, however, a great site to refer to.
In my opinion, the perfect “beginner/starter” fishtank would be the following (quantity of each dependent on the size tank you have):
Platies – they come in beautiful colors and are quite the characters. The “mickey mouse” platy actually has what looks like mickey mouse’s head on their tails (you’ll see if you look them up). They are undemanding and quite fun. However, they are livebearers and they will mate. You can get all females though if you don’t want fry.
Tetras – also come in beautiful variations and are relatively undemanding and easy to care for.
Yoyo Loach – this loach will help keep the bottom of your tank clean and don’t get as large as it’s relative, the quite popular clown loach (which can get to 12+” long).
Your zebrafish will fit in perfectly also.
There are plenty of other beginner fish, but I learned a great deal starting with this type of tank, and also with the breeding of livebearers. I still have this tank, but I have other tanks also.
Again, this is just my personal opinion of a perfect beginner tank. They can adjust a little easier to unexpected water changes too, which helps when you are new to fishkeeping.
I hope I was able to help you in some way. Best of luck to you, you are getting in to such an amazingly fun hobby. ;o)

I think guppy fish are the best to start out! There colorful and easy to take care of. They also have babies very quickly!

i found this article for you i hope it is helpful

Location
Before any purchases are made, a location for the aquarium should be
selected. Once the tank is full, it should not be moved unless it is
completely emptied again. Any attempt to move a full aquarium is
dangerous to the person and the tank. The aquarium should be placed
in an area convenient for everyday viewing but should not impede
traffic flow or be near objects, such as doors, which may hit the
tank. It should be away from any drafts or from windows in order to
avoid direct sunlight, which can promote temperature fluctuations
and the growth of algae. Sufficient access will be needed on the
sides and back of tank for the placement of equipment (such as
back-hanging power filters) and for maintenance. A nearby electrical
source will be needed for filtration, lighting, a heater and pump.
The floor should be level and able to support the weight of a full
tank. An aquarium will generally weigh at least 10 to 12 pounds per
gallon when full of water and substrate.
Equipment Set-Up
Rinse the aquarium, substrate and any decorations very well with
water. Do not use cleaners.
Prepare water as necessary (dechlorination, aeration, etc.). See
Water Quality, Sources of Water
Place the aquarium on the stand making sure to allow enough room
for equipment and maintenance.
If an under gravel filter is to be used, assemble it according to
the manufacturer’s directions and place it in the tank.
Spread the substrate over the bottom of the tank (or the under
gravel filter) and add desired decorations.
Add water to the aquarium. Leave several inches of space from the
top of the aquarium if plants will be added. The water can be
poured over an updside-down bowl on the bottom of the aquarium to
reduce disruption of substrate and decorations.
Assemble and add the filter system(s) and air pump, if applicable,
according to manufacturer’s instructions.
Add plants, if desired, by placing their roots in the substrate
bed.
Add additional water as needed.
Connect the heater, hood and lighting system.
Begin filter and air pump operation and let run continuously.
Begin cycling the filter (see below).
Check the ammonia and nitrite levels daily until the ammonia peak
and then the nitrite peak passes, at which time fish can be slowly
added to the system. Most kits will give you an expected range for
both. Products are available from your local retailer to speed the
cycling process.
Cycling the Filter
Nitrifying bacteria, although naturally present in the environment,
will take time to accumulate on biofilter media before they can
efficiently remove all of the wastes produced by fish. Setting up a
tank and stocking it full of fish the same day, or even within a
week or two, is not recommended. Add a few hardy fish at a time over
the cycling period. The bacteria in the biofilter can require three
to eight weeks to cycle and become established at 77 – 80o F. Even
more time may be required at cooler temperatures. Aquarists often
begin this cycling process prior to addition of many fish by
utilizing one of the following methods:

seeding the system with bacteria from a product purchased from a
local aquatic retailer.
adding a few individuals of a species of fish, such as danios,
that can handle the initial high ammonia and nitrite levels before
adding the final species to be held; or
seeding the system/biofilter with water- or substrate-containing
bacteria from a “healthy” established tank.
Ammonia and nitrite levels should be checked every few days until
the ammonia level and then nitrite level spike and lower (i.e.,
cycle). Tanks that are stocked before the biofilter is functioning
properly will often become cloudy from heavy ammonia levels and
very high non-nitrifying bacterial blooms, both of which can be
harmful to the fish.

Selecting and Stocking Fish
Selecting Fish
Personal taste and experience
Deciding on an aquarium community is an exciting and challenging
activity. Although personal tastes are important for the enjoyment
of the hobbyist, the level of experience is also vital in making
choices about fish selection. Beginning hobbyists should keep hardy
species and learn the proper care techniques prior to advancing to
more challenging species.
Water Conditions
The chemical characteristics of the water available for use in the
aquarium have an influence on the types of fish that may be stocked.
However, many common farm-raised fishes are more readily adaptable
to differing water conditions than wild-caught specimens. Most
hobbyists have tap or well water and only a limited ability to alter
the water to make it more suitable for certain fishes. For example,
if a hobbyist has hard, basic (pH of 7 or above) well water, an
African cichlid tank would be a good choice. There are ways of
making water that is more suitable for desired fishes (e.g., water
softeners, reverse-osmosis or RO units). Additionally, the water
chemistry requirements of the chosen fishes must be compatible with
each other. See Water Quality.
Fish Temperament
Producing a mix of fishes that will coexist without excessive
aggression, predation or other social complications can be
challenging and require experience. The use of fish designated as
beginner’s community tank species (see below) will assist the novice
hobbyist in creating a successful mix. With more experience, the
hobbyist will be able to create special communities from a wider
pool of species. See Profiles of Fish.
Food Requirements
It is important to know the food requirements prior to purchasing
fish. Certain fish species require live foods or vegetable material
in their diets. These fish can be difficult or expensive to
maintain. The hobbyist should be informed of any special food
requirements prior to purchasing the fish. Such fishes should only
be selected if the hobbyist is knowledgeable and willing to provide
the special diet. See Profiles of Fish.
Conflicting dietary requirements may exist for different species, so
care must be taken in mixing them if the food for one species is not
healthy for another. Additionally, some species with similar dietary
needs should not be mixed if one species is a timid feeder compared
to its more aggressive tank mates.
Another feeding consideration is the inclusion of algae and detritus
(organic material) eating species (plecos and catfish). These can
help maintain a cleaner tank. Conversely, plant eaters, like
cichlids, may not be appropriate choices if live plants are to be
grown in the tank.
See Fish Care and Aquarium Maintenance, Nutrition and Feeding.
Tank Strata
Fish selections should encompass all tank strata (levels) to provide
interest throughout the aquarium.
Tank Size
The size of the aquarium is important to the types and numbers of
fish selected. Large fish require large aquaria. Deep-bodied fishes
like discus and angels need deep or tall tanks. Fish should not be
cramped and there should be enough room for the fish to swim and
maneuver with extra space for growth. It is important to realize
that many fishes available in pet stores are juveniles and they may
grow to many times their present length.
Generally, a tank should not appear overcrowded with fish. Too many
fish put a strain on the filtering capacity (biological and
mechanical) of the tank systems and the dissolved oxygen level in
the water. Also, the fish may not have enough individual space which
may limit feeding and growth, increase stress and compromise fish
health. Moreover, high fish density makes it easier for fish
pathogens to move to new hosts and cause disease outbreaks.
The general rule is one inch of fish per gallon of water. Gravel,
rocks, plants, equipment and fish take up tank volume so the actual
water volume will be less than the volume listed for the tank. Fish
weight is more important than fish length. For example, the
strain-on-system capacity of an eight-inch cichlid is far greater
than that of eight one-inch tetras. Experienced hobbyists can safely
maintain more biomass of fish in a tank than can a novice. A common
exception to this rule is the Malawi (African) cichlid tank. A
hobbyist can stock high numbers of these cichlids (up to one fish
per gallon) in order to overcome the problems associated with
territorial aggression. When this is done tanks require large
filtration capacity and close attention to water quality.
Beginner’s Community Tank Fish
The following are good tank mates:
cherry barb, gold barb, rosy barb
danio
harlequin rasbora
white cloud mountain minnow
black neon tetra, head-and-tail light tetra, serpae tetra
corydoras catfish
ancistrus (bristle-nose) plecostomus, common plecostomus,
peckoltia plecostomus
Australian rainbowfish, dwarf rainbowfish
guppy
platy
swordtail
variatus
kribensis
blue gourami, dwarf gourami
Stocking Fish
A new tank setup should not be fully stocked with fish until the
biological filters gain the capacity to handle the waste load (i.e.,
the tank and biofilter have cycled). A few hardy fishes can be
introduced to provide ammonia wastes to feed the beneficial bacteria
in the filter. Over time, more fish can be added until the full
stocking is achieved. It is important to monitor ammonia and nitrite
levels in the tank during this time. See Cycling the Filter above.
Partial water changes (with water of the same temperature as the
tank) can be used to reduce waste levels if they become too high.
Although it is a good idea to stock the aquarium slowly for
biological filtration considerations, there are social aspects of
stocking as well. Territorial species should be stocked at the same
time so that no individual fish has the opportunity to establish
itself and then dominate new arrivals. If it is impossible to stock
territorial fish at the same time, it is advisable to re-arrange the
tank to disrupt territories and give the newcomer fish a chance.
Otherwise, the resident fish may damage or kill the new arrival.
If the tank has been established for a while, care should be taken
in adding new fish. There is often a temptation to add “just one
more fish.” The hobbyist must objectively assess if the tank’s
support systems can handle another fish. Also, what are the social
ramifications? Are there special or conflicting nutrition
requirements to consider? Lastly, any new fish should be quarantined
prior to stocking to ensure that no pathogens are introduced.
Acclimating Fish
Since water chemistry may vary greatly from one site to the next, it
is extremely important to acclimate fish slowly when introducing
them to the aquarium. Immediately dumping fish from the bag into the
aquarium can result in the fish experiencing rapid changes in
temperature, pH, alkalinity and hardness. The shock of these changes
can stress the fish, resulting in lowering the fish’s immune system
and making them susceptible to disease.
If possible, remove approximately 50 percent of the water from the
fish bag and place an airstone in the bag. Gradually add small
amounts of water from the tank where the fish will be added to the
fish bag over a 20 to 30 minute period. It is important to know the
water quality in the bag, particularly the ammonia and pH. If
ammonia is present in the fish bag water and the pH is higher in the
aquarium water than in the fish bag water, more of the ammonia will
shift into the toxic unionized form, which can be detrimental to the
fish. See Water Quality, “Ammonia”. It is possible to use a
commercial ammonia blocker for the acclimation period to bind any
ammonia in the fish bag water.
If it is not possible to perform a gradual water change, the bag of
fish should be floated in the aquarium water to which they’ll be
added for at least 20 to 30 minutes or until the temperatures are
the same.
Once the fish have been acclimated, they can be moved into the
aquarium using a soft-meshed net. Water from the bag should not be
added to the aquarium because it may have undesirable water quality
(high ammonia, carbon dioxide, etc.) and may harbor pathogen
Choose fish that have similar water chemistry requirements and that
are temperamentally suited to living with each other